Esse

Esse is chef Matt Orlando's celebrated return to Copenhagen after Amass closed, reuniting much of the old team in a Nordhavn warehouse and earning a Michelin star in its first season. Critics rave about its inventive zero-waste cooking — fermented potato bread carried over from Amass, fish-bone noodles, bread ice cream — served in a warm, unpretentious room with loud hip-hop and an open kitchen, though a few reviewers note the experimentation occasionally outruns flavour on a dish or two.