Esmée

The Spis take

A handsome French brasserie by Kongens Nytorv from chef Andreas Bagh (ex-Marchal), serving classic French cooking through a Nordic lens: gougères with truffle, whole sole with mussel sauce, that kind of thing. The room and service earn consistent praise, and at its best it's a genuinely special night out. The honest caveat is that it's pricey and reviews are uneven, so the kitchen doesn't always land every dish at the level the bill implies.