Grappa

The Spis take

A canal-side Italian on Åboulevarden doing a modern take on the classics: pizzas, antipasti and pasta made with decent ingredients, minus the checkered-tablecloth cliché. It leans on its prime river-terrace location for the summer people-watching, and reviews are solidly warm rather than ecstatic. A reliable, pleasant sit-down dinner rather than a pilgrimage.