La Vecchia Signora Vini e Delicatezze

The Spis take

A little Sardinian institution tucked into a 1753 half-timbered house in the old center, run by chef Achille Melis since the early 1980s. The wood-fired pizzas have landed it on Gambero Rosso's best-Copenhagen-pizzerias list for years running, but there's also homemade pasta, meat and fish, and a serious wine list. Cozy and slightly old-school, with a fireplace in winter and a courtyard in summer, this is the spot for people who want the real Italian thing rather than the trendy one.