Atlas

The Spis take

The brasserie and cafe of Amerikalinjen, the design hotel in the former Norwegian America Line headquarters by Jernbanetorget. It does breakfast through dinner in a handsome heritage setting, with a Saturday brunch backed by live jazz and tables spilling into the covered Haven courtyard, and it sits within a building full of good drinking (the cocktail bar and the downstairs Gustav jazz club). Polished and a touch pricey, it's a comfortable, atmospheric choice rather than a foodie pilgrimage.