Casa Pisano

The Spis take

A big, buzzy trattoria near the centre (Tordenskiolds gate) with 250-plus seats, a proper pizza oven and a rooftop terrace — pasta, pizza and wine done with real conviction. The pizza in particular draws comparisons to the genuine article, and the themed rooms give it character, though at this scale quality can wobble and service slows when it's full. A dependable, lively choice for Italian in the city, if not a hushed fine-dining affair.