Lasarett

The Spis take

A tiny 16-seat Torshov matbar built around natural-leaning wine and simple, well-made small plates rather than a big kitchen show-off. Think shrimp brioche, tomato dishes, artichoke toast and cheese, paired with good bottles and good music in a deliberately intimate, unpretentious room. If you like wine bars where the drinks lead and the plates support, this is a lovely one; if you want a full dinner, look elsewhere.